auxiliary battery disconnect problem.

  • 04/17/2018 3:03 PM
    Message # 6107831
    Deleted user

    Looking for help with an electrical issue.  Arrived at my destination after a 5 hour drive, and when set up, I turned on some lights.  The lights lit fine.  Turned on the furnace and the lights dimmed.  Checked the battery charge indicator for the house batteries and it showed empty.  Turned the disconnect off and back on and everything worked fine for a short while, then went dim, not off.  I noticed that the relay that disconnects the batteries had one loose wire.  There are four wires, two obviously to or from the batteries (located near the top of the relay on each side,) and two much smaller wires (probably no 12) near the bottom front of the relay.  The one on the left was loose, the nut that is supposed to hold it on having come loose and nearly off.  I tightened that nut, then used the emergency start to start the generator.  Many hours later, I turned off the generator, waited a bit, and checked the charge on the panel and it showed half charged.  (I wish the panel would show volts!)  I discovered later that pushing the emergency start button by the steering wheel caused the relay to click and the lights came fully on. I'm guessing I was using chassis battery then.  I can't figure out if it is just a battery problem, or if the wire being loose on the relay caused it to burn internal contacts or if there is another issue.  I hate to put in new batteries if there is going to be a charging issue caused by the disconnect, but I have checked every fuse I can find, and I get the impression from reading forums that these relays don't go bad.  When I took out the batteries to charge them, one showed 70% and the other 40% (probably not recoverable)  Whose got an idea on this?

  • 04/18/2018 12:52 PM
    Reply # 6109275 on 6107831
    Deleted user

    We have a ’99 Bounder 35J. A while back (years) we had a problem with the chassis battery disconnect relay. I don’t have any idea how much, if any, of this may apply to your case, but here goes…

    On our unit all of the battery management functions are handled by a single black box located in the very front of the unit, i.e. where the chassis battery, radiator reservoir, window-washer fluid reservoir, etc. are located. There are three large relays located in the box. All three have four electrical connection posts: two large posts that carry the battery current; two small posts that are used to operate the relay(s). Two of these relays are "latching"; once energized to move to a particular position, they will remain in that position when the actuating signal (voltage) is removed. These two relays are used for the battery disconnect function; one for the chassis battery and the other for the coach battery. They are switched by reversing the polarity of the voltage applied to the coils: one polarity closes the relay; the other polarity opens the relay. The actuation voltage is only applied briefly, perhaps for a second. They are operated this way so that there will not be a continuous drain on the batteries from the relay coils when the relays are closed. The third large relay is the cross-connect (aux start, etc.) relay. It is a non-latching relay and is only in it’s closed position when voltage is applied to the relay coil.

    This black box also manages the charging of both of the batteries from either the inverter (when connected to shore power) or the engine alternator (when the engine is running).

    Our particular problem was that the chassis battery disconnect relay had gone bad; the contacts had become "carbonized". I speculate that enough gunk had built up between the contacts to form a resistance path. In fact the unit had become so hot at some point that some of the internal plastic parts had melted and deformed.

    I did a "field service" to the relay by connecting some "plumbers tape" (metal strap that plumbers use to hang pipes under a house) across the two large posts of the relay (thus defeating the battery disconnect function) until I could get a replacement. BE SURE TO PHYSICALLY DISCONNECT THE CABLES TO THE BATTERIES, AT THE BATTERIES, WHEN MESSING AROUND WITH THIS STUFF!

    I managed to get the schematic of my black box, as well as a replacement relay, from the nice folks at RV Custom Products, which I have attached

    EdC

    1 file
    Last modified: 04/18/2018 1:40 PM | Deleted user
  • 10/28/2019 1:19 PM
    Reply # 8080693 on 6107831

    I'm having some similar problems in understanding my 2011 Bounder 35H winter storage charging options. Thanks yo SO MUCH Ed for the troubleshooting guide. 

    If anyone knows how the solar panel is tied in, I'd appreciate the guidance.



    Last modified: 10/28/2019 1:20 PM | Geoffrey M Kerr

©2023 all rights reserved, Fleetwood Motorhome Association.                                                                             Contact Us | Privacy Policy

Powered by Wild Apricot Membership Software