Battery drain and prep for winter

  • 12/02/2017 6:24 PM
    Message # 5610586
    Deleted user
    I am going to ask some newbie questions. We are the very recent owners of our first RV - a Pace Arrow 36U and I have not been able to get through many of the manuals yet..


    We were away for a month (not in the RV) and on returning I find that both the house and chassis batteries are completely dead.  I thought I had turned everything off - but I guess there is something doing some vampire draining.  What really surprised me was the chassis battery.  I assumed it would be good for several months without charging.

    So I have three sets of questions:

    1. Is there something I should be looking at to explain the rapid drain of all batteries, especially the chassis battery.
    2. What do I need to do to prep the house batteries for winter?  We are in northern Illinois and it could get very cold soon. I have access to power and so could plug the RV in to shore power - should I? Do I need to remove them and bring them to my basement?  Is there some disconnect switch I am supposed to use?
    3. What do I need to do with the chassis battery?
    Any advice is welcome - thanks.
    Colin
  • 12/03/2017 7:28 PM
    Reply # 5611513 on 5610586
    Deleted user

    We live in Northern Wisconsin with our 2015 Bounder 35K.  Thankfully, we have not experience you difficulty's with the dead batteries.

    Just above the entrance door in our coach, there are two switches that will kill the electrical juice in the house and the engine.  When ever we leave the coach, when it is not plugged in to shore power, we will put those switches in the off position.  Even if that would be for a few hours.

    We also disconnect the inverter power, when leaving the coach for a few days.  Right now, we have the coach in winter storage.  I pay a visit to the coach on, or about, the first of every month that it is in storage.  At that time, I start the engine and also run the generator for at least a 1/2 hour.  I run the generator with a load.  When i opened the door today to make my inspection, I first checked the main and house battery status.  Both were at full charge.  I still ran the engine and generator.

    When I left, I turned off the inverter and the two battery disconnect switches.  I have to remember to extend the steps before turning off those switches.

    Jim

  • 12/04/2017 1:56 PM
    Reply # 5612503 on 5610586
    Deleted user

    Jim,

    Thank you for your response.  That is exactly the information I needed.  Your response led me to the right place in the manual which also pointed out switching off the house power if storing for 48 hours or more.  According to the manual the house disconnect also disconnects the inverter.

    I had already read about running the generator with load and so plan to do this monthly for 30 minutes or so.

    Thanks again for the quick and helpful response.

    Colin

  • 12/04/2017 4:03 PM
    Reply # 5612679 on 5610586
    Deleted user

    Yes it does, but if you do not turn off the switch in the inverter bay, it still may keep drawing a little current.

    Mine has a big orange switch that you turn to the off position.


    Jim

  • 12/05/2017 10:22 AM
    Reply # 5613684 on 5610586

    Hello Colin,

    We live in Ontario and deal with cold weather Winter preparation and storage.

    A couple of additional things we do is:

    1) Add fuel stabilizer to the fuel tank and run the motor and generator for about 10 minutes. This prevents the gas from gumming up the fuel injectors.

    2) As previously suggested, start the generator monthly and run it under load for about 15 minutes.

    3) Fully charge your batteries, disconnect them (as previously advised) and leave them in the coach. The cold temperatures will only slow down the chemical reactions in the battery and prolong it's life. By doing this in the past with my boat (3 deep cycle batteries) I was getting 7 years out of them before replacing.

    All the best.

  • 12/06/2017 1:32 AM
    Reply # 5614736 on 5610586
    Deleted user
    Ensure the fuel stabilizer you use is for ethanol blended gasoline. Not all of them are. If it is not, I have read the stabilizer can accelerate the rate that the ethanol draws in moisture.  Here's an example of a product that will work.  I'm not sure if the most popular brand, Sta-Bil has a stabilizer for ethanol blended gas, although by now, they should have.   https://lucasoil.com/products/fuel-treatments/safeguard-ethanol-fuel-conditioner-with-stabilizers



  • 12/06/2017 8:34 PM
    Reply # 5616097 on 5610586
    Deleted user

    More good tips - thanks.

    Regarding the fuel stabilizer, what I have read is that stabilizers are just for gas engines.  Our Pace Arrow is diesel.  If I understand correctly, the issues are different.  The primary tendency with diesel is that algae can grow and a product like Pri-Ocide from Pri-Products deals with that.  As we are in a cold (northern Illinois) climate, this is less of an issue, but I still plan to add Pri-Ocide quite soon.  If anyone has experience with Pri-Ocide or any altrnatives that they would recommend, please let me know.

    Colin

  • 09/25/2018 2:33 PM
    Reply # 6692412 on 5610586
    Deleted user

    Colin,

    This is a bit late for last year's winterizing, but perhaps just in time for this year. I have been a full-time live aboard on two different boats for the past seven years. We have large diesel tanks on these boats -- 100 to 200 gallons or more -- and always add fuel stabilizers with every fill to prevent the growth of "bugs" that contaminate fuel and clog injectors. The best known of these is Biobor JF. It's been around for years and is widely used. In addition to the Biobor, I now use a relatively new additive called Star-Tron Enzyme Fuel Treatment for Diesel. This combination is recommended by Practical Sailor, the Consumer Reports for boat owners (exhaustive testing, no advertising, good, practical recommendations). 

    Best of luck,

    Alan

  • 10/04/2018 9:27 AM
    Reply # 6706961 on 5610586
    Anonymous

    Even with the battery disconnect switch on, there are still parasitic drags, such as propane monitors, Carbon Monoxide monitors, etc. If you can plug into power you likely have a floating charging system that will trickle charge when necessary and should not overcharge the batteries, but keep an eye on the water levels.

    The same is true of the Chassis battey.

    If you want, you can also put a disconnect on the batteries and hook up a battery tender.

    Also, running the generator like disussed by others is recommended by the manufacturer


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