vacuflush system

  • 06/09/2017 5:42 PM
    Reply # 4890299 on 919496
    Deleted user

    Is there a way to turn the system off and still flush the toilet.???? It is very annoying especially at the night time when the pump recycles after using.

     It seems there is never enough water to remove waste. Any help or thought on this will be greatly appreciated. 2015 Bounder 35k

  • 06/10/2017 9:01 AM
    Reply # 4890936 on 931145
    Anonymous
    Ron wrote:Yes, we had that same problem when the motorhome was new. We had Vacuflush service loofa at it. They found that the seal between and the floor was not properly installed by Fleetwood. The toilet is attached worth 4 bolts, these bolts are supposed to be tightened "sequentially' similarly to tightening the wheel lugs on a car. Not installing it that way cause the seal to be compressed more on one side causing a leak on the opposite aide. Vacuflush corrected the installation......NO more problems (2+ years)
    Is there a list of VacuFlush service centers, if so how do I locate it?
  • 04/18/2018 9:38 PM
    Reply # 6109988 on 919496
    Deleted user

    The fuse block for my VacuFlush was in the back of the cabinet next to the toilet that has the switch to turn on/off the vacuum system.  Hard to find but glad i did!  Square black cover with about 18 fuses for various things in the 12v system.

  • 08/26/2018 9:53 PM
    Reply # 6639841 on 919496
    Deleted user

    I had an 08 Southwind and the fuse was in the half bath in the back of the cabinet at the outside wall.  Lots of fuses there!  VacuFlush system on mine was in an outside storage bay just behind the entry door.  In my 2016 Southwind, the vacuflush system is behind a wood panel in the outside storage bay behind the passenger rear tire.  Had to replace the duckbill valves twice - not a pleasant task but keeps that system running well.  Interesting system, expensive and hard to maintain, i'd rather have two black tanks!

  • 09/06/2018 11:10 PM
    Reply # 6657779 on 919496
    Deleted user

    Replying to Bruce.

    We have a 2007 Pace Arrow 36D with 1.5 baths using VaccuFlush. Our pump failed and the result was not good. Our pump is located on the curb side in the second compartment from thr entry door. It’s behind a upholstered plywood panel. Hope yours is the same and hope this helps.

    Alan Ford

  • 10/31/2018 11:20 AM
    Reply # 6882530 on 919496
    Anonymous

    The vacuflush pump on our 2018 Bounder is located in the same compartment as propane tank.  There is a shelf located above the propane tank that is cover with a panel.

    Last modified: 10/31/2018 11:21 AM | Anonymous
  • 02/17/2019 4:13 PM
    Reply # 7170095 on 919496
    Anonymous

    We have a 2017 Storm 36D that has the same problem, continuously recycling. Water remains in the bowl, will gave to look at the seal. You will be hard pressed to get to the rest of the system without major contortions.  Good luck.

  • 05/30/2019 2:42 PM
    Reply # 7509359 on 919496

    I guess I need to throw my hat into the ring on this topic.

    We bought a 2014 Bounder 35K in October 2018. At that time we did not understand the workings of the VacuFlush system. After our first outing, I researched and learned about the red and green status lights. It was never going to green indicating a vacuum leak somewhere. We were still in the purchase warranty period. The dealer made good by finding the leak and replacing the base unit on the 1/2 bath unit. On inspection, it went to green, so I signed off on the fix. I should have left the system run longer during the inspection to be sure there were no issues when the pump switch is left on.

    On later trips we noticed that the status light would go from green to red, for no apparent reason, and the vacuum pump runs indefinitely. 

    I inspected around each toilet and noticed some water around the one in the 1/2 bath. Dometic/SeaLand tech support said to start with the most common problem, the half-clamps that fasten the bowl to the base. Their instructions were to be sure the worm drive on the band was at the back of the bowl. The half-clamps meet in the front and are gapped at the back initially. With the worm-drive on the band at the back, it was closing the gap properly. If the worm clamp is anywhere else, the band needs to slide on the half-clamp and it will not be as effective. This solves the water issue behind the 1/2 bath base, but after a while, I still go from green to red. There is still a leak in the vacuum system somewhere!. 

    Dometic does not sell parts directly. They gave me the name of one of their parts distributers for additional tech support and parts if needed. Environmental Marine - 800-522-2656.

    Environmental Marine indicated that the most likely problem is that the unit has never been serviced, Valves and seals in the pump itself should be changed every 2 years. There are several different systems so I need to take a pic and they will determine what repair kit I need. The kit contains duck-bill valves and o-rings and start at $160. Now we're talking real money! 

    Will the warranty that I purchased when I bought the coach cover this type of repair?

    I asked the warranty company and they said I needed to have a service center perform a diagnostic on the issue and submit the claim. Only then will they say whether it is covered or not. The service center at the dealership charges $149/hour labor. I don't know how long it will take or if the service is even covered under the warranty.  It could take as long as 2 weeks start to finish. What to do? What to do?

    Questions to other VacuFlush users:

    Has this type of claim ever been submitted as a warranty claim and covered?

    Has anyone ever had the duck-bill valves and o-rings replaced by a mobile technician? Cost?

    Has anyone ever replaced the duck-bill valves and o-rings as a DIY project? 


    YouTube has a number of videos on this topic, but all of them are on boats.
    It shouldn't be that different. I just need to have the right parts and the right tools.

    Thanks In advance for any constructive input on this topic.



      

  • 06/18/2019 12:31 PM
    Reply # 7585847 on 919496
    Deleted user

    We had the same frequent vacuum cycling....a pita...our toilet is a SeaLand, and I went on line and bought two new seals....the old seals had hard water build up that I had to scrub clean...now they are spares and I don't know it they will work...getting to the seals is only one big worm clamp with the screw head in the back...not a difficult project but there are specific instructions for the sequence of the two seals installation...the replacement worked well all winter, and now I have the same recycle issue...will repeat the process above...

    update....put a few squirts of laundry detergent in the bowl a month ago, along with some water....just loaded the water tank 4 days ago, and the seal has held in the toilet...read about laundry soap on this forum---never tried dish soap since the laundry soap is not broken

    Last modified: 07/04/2019 4:56 PM | Deleted user
  • 12/29/2019 7:54 PM
    Reply # 8420298 on 7509359
    Anonymous
    Dan McWhertor wrote:

    I guess I need to throw my hat into the ring on this topic.

    We bought a 2014 Bounder 35K in October 2018. At that time we did not understand the workings of the VacuFlush system. After our first outing, I researched and learned about the red and green status lights. It was never going to green indicating a vacuum leak somewhere. We were still in the purchase warranty period. The dealer made good by finding the leak and replacing the base unit on the 1/2 bath unit. On inspection, it went to green, so I signed off on the fix. I should have left the system run longer during the inspection to be sure there were no issues when the pump switch is left on.

    On later trips we noticed that the status light would go from green to red, for no apparent reason, and the vacuum pump runs indefinitely. 

    I inspected around each toilet and noticed some water around the one in the 1/2 bath. Dometic/SeaLand tech support said to start with the most common problem, the half-clamps that fasten the bowl to the base. Their instructions were to be sure the worm drive on the band was at the back of the bowl. The half-clamps meet in the front and are gapped at the back initially. With the worm-drive on the band at the back, it was closing the gap properly. If the worm clamp is anywhere else, the band needs to slide on the half-clamp and it will not be as effective. This solves the water issue behind the 1/2 bath base, but after a while, I still go from green to red. There is still a leak in the vacuum system somewhere!. 

    Dometic does not sell parts directly. They gave me the name of one of their parts distributers for additional tech support and parts if needed. Environmental Marine - 800-522-2656.

    Environmental Marine indicated that the most likely problem is that the unit has never been serviced, Valves and seals in the pump itself should be changed every 2 years. There are several different systems so I need to take a pic and they will determine what repair kit I need. The kit contains duck-bill valves and o-rings and start at $160. Now we're talking real money! 

    Will the warranty that I purchased when I bought the coach cover this type of repair?

    I asked the warranty company and they said I needed to have a service center perform a diagnostic on the issue and submit the claim. Only then will they say whether it is covered or not. The service center at the dealership charges $149/hour labor. I don't know how long it will take or if the service is even covered under the warranty.  It could take as long as 2 weeks start to finish. What to do? What to do?

    Questions to other VacuFlush users:

    Has this type of claim ever been submitted as a warranty claim and covered?

    Has anyone ever had the duck-bill valves and o-rings replaced by a mobile technician? Cost?

    Has anyone ever replaced the duck-bill valves and o-rings as a DIY project? 


    YouTube has a number of videos on this topic, but all of them are on boats.
    It shouldn't be that different. I just need to have the right parts and the right tools.

    Thanks In advance for any constructive input on this topic.



      

    Go to IRV2.com, there are a number of threads on this topic and some have pictures of the duckbill valves being replaced.  I replaced mine myself on our 2015 Bounder 35K.  It does require some "finagling" of your body, tools and two panel removal.  I found an adjustable aluminum stand that I stretched out on and completed the repair in relative comfort.  I tried to attach pictures but was not successful.

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